Wild celery, or smallage, is native to marshy areas along seashores in the temperate regions of the world. It likes sun, but also the plentiful water found at those sites. From it, our modern celery has been bred and is grown in temperate climates around the world. The intense bitterness in smallage has been transformed into a mild, sweet, crunchy vegetable. In markets year-round, the peak season is fall through winter to spring. The stalks should be stiff and any leaves fresh looking. Celery can be kept for up to 10 days in a perforated plastic bag in the crisper of the fridge. Wrap in damp paper towels, if necessary, to keep it from drying out. Fresh: Raw celery sticks make excellent crudités, or fill small pieces with blue or creamy cheese and other savory mixtures for hors-d’oeuvres. Dice for salads and sandwich fillings. Use stalks to garnish tall drinks or a cheese plate. Cooked: Steam, braise, bake in a gratin, sauté or stir-fry, …